Collar



March 28, 1939. .w, RUBINSTEIN COLLAR I Filed June 15, 1938 ZSheetS-Shee. 1

March 28, 1939. 'w RuBlNSTElN 2,152,094

COLLAR Filed June 13, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 28; 1939 vUNITED STATE COLLAR Wilton Rubinstein, Clayton, M0. Application June 13,1938, Serial No. 218,847

7 Claims.

This invention relates to collars; and has special reference to collarsfor use in connection with men's shirts, and including a band-and acape, irrespective 'of whether the collars are permanently secured tothe shirts or are detachable therefrom.

An object of the invention is to provide a collar of the typementionedhaving a fold line provided by an area definitely incorporatedwithin 1 the collar and the purpose of which is to provide a line alongwhich the collar will positively fold so that it is practicallyimpossible to fold the collar incorrectly. In one form of the invention,this definite fold line is provided by a bias sec- 16 tion of fabric ofpredetermined width definitely confining the fold line permanently tothis area, located between two lining sections one of which is in thecape and the other of which is in the band of the collar. Thisconstitutes a type of 0 hinge or line along which the collar will foldand which will withstand launderings and other processes indefinitely.

In a collar of this construction, the bias strip rises above theadjacent edges of the lining sections included in the cape and band, andforms an effective guard against possible friction between the edges ofthe lining sections included in the cape and band respectively, so thatit is' impossible for such edges to wear or cut through the outer ply ofthe collar, as would otherwise occur. In this way, the inventionprovides a collar that will endure and withstand the processes to whichit is subjected longer than collars not including these features.

Another object of the invention is to provide a collar of this typeembodying novel features and elements arranged and assembled in a novelcooperative relationship that will attain all of the objects of theinvention before or hereinafter indicated.

Various advantages of this improved collar will become apparent from thefollowing description, reference being made to the annexed drawings, inwhich Fig. 1 is a plan view of one of the plies of my improved collar.

Fig. 2 is an inside plan view of the infold ply after the bias striphasbeen attached thereto by two lines of stitches.

bias strip has been attached thereto and after the lining section of thecollar band has been attached to the bias strip and the infold ply by aline of stitches. V

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the infold ply after the Fig. 4 is a plan viewof the collar turned inside-out and showing the lining section attachedthereto.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the collar turned to expose the outer surfaceof the infold ply and 5 showing the lines of stitches attaching the biasstrip to the infold ply, and also the single line of stitches attachingthelining section of the collar band to the bias strip and the infoldply of the collar. 10

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic sectional view along the line 6-6 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic sectional view along the line 1-1 of the capein Fig. 5.

Fig. 8'is an outside plan view of a collar made in accordance with thisinvention, a part .of the exposed ply being broken away to illustratethe manner in which the lining sections are spaced to provide the foldline and are attached to the infold ply of the collar. 20

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the infold ply of the collar after both liningsections have been attached to the bias strip and to said infold ply.

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the collar after a marginal row ofstitches'has been formed adjacent. to the edges of the cape and extendedinto the ends of the collar band.

Fig. 11 is a plan view of a collar after the marginal edge of theexposed ply has been turned inward and attached to the band liningsection by a continuous row of stitches extending from end to end of thecollar band and meeting the stitches shown in Fig.-10.

Fig. 12 is an enlarged diagrammatic sectional view on the line |2 |2 ofFig. 11. 85

Fig. 13 is an enlarged diagrammatic sectional view of the collar folded,showing themanner in which the bias strip forms the fold line of thecollar and also prevents the relatively sharp edges of the liningsections from damaging adjacent portions of the collar.

Fig. 14 illustrates a construction by which friction along the fold lineis minimized when the collar is ironed.

In making a collar in accordance with this invention, two plies like theply A (Fig. 1) are made, one of which is used as the infold ply B andthe other of which is used as the exposed ply C. The infold ply includesa cape portion I 50 and a band portion 2, and the exposed ply includes acape portion 3 and a band portion 4 matching the cape and band portionsof the infold ply. A strip of fabric 5 is then attached to theultimately concealed side of the infold ply 55 impregnated with achemical, as in permanent finished organdy, so that the fabric will notbe-.

come dead soft or flimsy when laundered repeatof the threads 8 of whichthe strip is woven extend diagonally across the strip. The lines ofstitches 6 extend from end to end of the ply B, therebeingelongatedportions at the ends of said strip extending to the ends of the bandportion 2. This strip extends along and spans the fold line of thecollar, which curves from the corner It to the corner ll along themedian line of the strip, as is clear from Fig. 2.

Next, a lining section l2 for the band of the collar is laid upon theband portion 2 of the infold ply of the collar with its upper marginoverlapping the lower portion of the strip 5, and the upper margin ofsaid strip is attached to the strip 5 and to the infold ply B by a lineof stitches l3, preferably running between the lines of stitches 6 andI. The upper edge of the lining section l2 terminates below thelongitudinal median line of the strip 5.

Next, the exposed ply C is placed upon the infold ply in a relationshipin which the surfaces of said plies that are ultimately exposed when thecollar is finished, are toward each other; and a lining section l4 forthe cape is placed upon that side of the cape 3 of the exposed ply ofthe collar and attached to said exposed ply and to the infold ply by aline of stitches l5 running along the margin of the cape and the ends ofthe band. Then the collar is turned to a position in which both liningsections and the strip 5 are between the exposed and infold plies of thecollar, as shown in Fig. 5. This causes the upper margin of the liningsection I M to overlap that margin of the strip 5 which extends into thecape in a relationship in which a curved fold line space I6 is leftbetween the adjacent edges of the lining sections l2 and I4. Theprovision of this space 5, which constitutes the fold line of thecollar, is highly important even if the strip 5 is omitted in someconstructions, as is possible though not highly desirable. I prefer andrecommend the use of the strip 5 because my experiments have establishedthat a collar embodying the strip is better than a collar from which thestrip is omitted because, in the latter construction, the collarsometimes buckles, and also because, when the strip is omitted, theedges of the lining sections are in direct contact with the collarfabric, causing premature wear.

In collars embodying the bias strip, said strip rises above the marginsof both lining sections when the collar is folded along the line It, andpositively prevents abrasion of the collar fabric through friction withthe edges of said lining sections.

After the collar has been turned as described, the upper margin of thelining section M, which overlaps the lower margin of that portion of thestrip 5 extending into the cape, is attached to said strip 5 and to theinfold ply B by a line 01 stitches l1 between the lines of stitches 6and I3. This deflnitely'holds these attached parts in the precisearrangement desired, irrespective of whether the lining sections I 2 andI4 are com-- posed of thermoplastic material or not, although folded, asin Fig. 11.

. 9,159,004 by lines of stitches 3 and I. The strip 3 must beIprefertomake saidliningsectionsofthermoplastic material.-

Next, a line of stitches II is formed along the lower margin and alongthe end margins of the a cape and the lower edge l2. is of the exposedply C is enclose the lower margin of the lining section 12 and attachedthereto by a line of stitches 23 connected with the ends of the line ofstitches I, as shown in Fig. 11. The collar may be provided with theusual buttonhole 2| and button 22 for attaching together the ends of thecollar.

when the lining sections l2 and it are composed of thermoplasticmaterial, they will secure together the band and cape portions of theinfold and exposed plies of the collar under the influence of heat andpressure, and these plies will be held together thereafter. Or, liningmaterial may be used that will require immersion in a solvent andsubsequent application of heat and pressure, Celanese processes. a Whenthe cape and band are folded to the form in which the collar is worn,the folding occurs along the line 23 (Fig. 11), which is the space lineIt. After the collar is folded and then extended flatwise, the line 23of the exposed ply remains slightly but visibly raised throughout thelength of the collar. In the folding of the collar, the strip 5 betweenthe lines of stitches l3 and I1 is caused to extend between the adjacentmarginal edges of the lining sections i2 and I I, and thereby preventthe edges of said lining sections from abrading either ply of thecollar. Said strip also functions to form the definite line 23, which isplainly visible when the collar is again extended flatwise.

The order in which the operations are performed may be varied to anyextent desired within the range of successful manufacture withoutdeparture from the invention, irrespective of whether the liningsections l2 and M are thermoplastic on one or both sides, or whether oneor both of said sections are without thermoplastic quality. In anyinstance, it is necessary that the adjacent edges of said sections beseparated by the fold line space l6, and it is preferable that theadjacent edges of said sections be attached by the stitches I3 and I! tothe infold ply B and to the bias strip 5, irrespective of whether saidsections are composed of thermoplastic material or not. When made inthis way, the bias strip 5 extends slightly beyond the upper edges ofboth lining sections when the collar is folded, and creates the 'foldline 23 along the exposed ply, which is plainly visible when the collaris un- The strip 5 also functions to prevent the upper edges of thesections l2 and I4 from damaging the fold line 23 of the collar, whichis between the edges of said lining sections, thereby greatly prolongingthe life of the collar beyond the extent to which it would endure ifsaid lining sections l2 and Il were permitted to abrade the fold line.

The presence of the space l6 along the fold line of the collar permitsthat portion of the exposed ply covering said space to enter said spacewhen the collar is being ironed, because the margins of the sections l2and I4 overlying the margins of the strip 5 produce a greater thick-Then the lower edge 'ness than along the fold line itself. Therefore,

the iron exerts no pressure whatever on the exposed ply C along the foldline. .A collar of this construction is the only one known to me whichassures perfect smoothness throughout the entire area of the fold linewhen the collar is ironed.

folded inwardly to' fss This construction eliminates the formation ofwrinkles and ruifles, etc., as so frequently occurs in the case of othercollars with which I am familiar.

From the foregoing description, be apparent that this inventioncompletely attains all of its intended objects and purposes. Also, itshould be apparent that the specific form and relationship of the partsmay be varied within the scope of equivalent limits without departurefrom the nature and principle of the invention.

I claim:

1. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply and an infold ply bothof which extend the full length and width of the collar forming a bandand a cape, and having a fold line alon which the band and cape may beturned against each other; a bias strip extending longitudinally thefull length of the collar and having a width greater than the width ofthe fold line and extending a short distance into the band and caperespectively, means attaching the longitudinal margins of said strip tosaid infold ply, and sections of lining material in the band and caperespectively covering the margins of said strip and said attaching meansand having their adjacent edges separated by a longitudinal space alongthe fold line of the collar throughout the length of said sections andsaid strip, and each having its upper edge attached to said strip and tosaid ini'old ply by a longitudinal row of stitches.

2. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply and an infold ply bothextending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band'anda cape, and having a fold line extending between corners formed by theband and the cape along which the band and cape may be turned againsteach other; a bias strip extending longitudinally the full length of thecollanand having a width greater than the width of the fold line andextending downwardly a short distance into the band and caperespectively and also extending longitudinally into the band beyond saidcorners, means attaching said strip to said infold ply, sections oflining material in the band and. cape respectively having their adjacentedges separated by a longitudinal space along said strip and said foldline of the collar, and means attaching the adjacent margins of saidsections to said strip and said-infold ply whereby said strip willextend upwardly beyond the upper edges of said sections when the collaris folded along said fold line.

3. Ina turned down collar having an exposed ply and an infold ply bothextending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band andcape having corners at the ends thereof; a bias strip extendinglongitudinally in a curved line between said corners and extendingbeyond said corners into the band, spaced lines of stitches attachingsaid strip to said lnfold ply throughout the length of the strip,sections oi. lining material in the band and cape respectively havingtheir adjacent edges curving between said corners'and separated by alongitudinal curved space along said strip and between said corners. andmeans attaching adjacent margins of said sections to said strip and saidinfold ply between said lines of stitches and causing said strip toextend upwardly beyond the upper edges of said sections when the collaris folded along said it should now preventing abrasion of the exposedthe upper edges of said secspace and ply of the collar by tions.

4. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply and an infold ply bothextending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band anda cape having corners at the ends thereof; a bias strip extendinglongitudinally the full length of the collar between said corners. andsections of lining material thermoplastic on one side in the band andcape respectively having their adjacent edges separated by alongitudinal space along said strip and each having its upper edgeattached to said strip and said infold ply by aline of stitches to forma fold line along said longitudinal space and cause said strip to extendupwardly beyond the edges of said sections when the collar is folded,each of said sections being adhesively united to one of said plies.

5. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply and an infold ply bothextending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band anda cape with corners at the ends thereof a strip curving longitudinallythe full length of the collar between said corners, and sections oflining material in the band and cape respectively, one of which isthermoplastic on one side and is adhesively united to one of said pliesand both having their adjacent edges overlapping and attached to saidstrip and said infold ply by longitudinal lines of spaced stitches, theadjacent edges of said sections being separated by a curved longitudinalspace along said strip into which said strip extends against saidexposed ply to define a visible fold line when the collar is folded.

6.- In a turned'down collar having an exposed ply and an infold plyboth-extending the full length and width of the collar and forming aband and a cape with corners at the ends there-, of; a strip curvinglongitudinally the full length of the collar between said corners andextending beyond said corners into the end portions of the band,sections of thermoplastic lining material in the. band and caperespectively having their adjacent edges separated by a longitudinalcurved space along said strip, and spaced rows of stitches attaching theadjacent margins of said sections to said strip and said infold ply andcausing said strip to extend upwardly beyond the upper edges of saidsections and against the ex posed ply when space and preventing theupper edges of said sections from abrading theinner surface of theexposed ply when the collar is folded.

7. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply ,and an infold ply bothextending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band anda cape with corners at the ends thereof sections of lining material inthe band and cape respectively having their adjacent edges separated bya curved longitudinal space between said corners, spaced lines ofstitches attaching the adjacent margins of said sections to said inioldply, and means engaged by said stitches extending between the adjacentedges of said sections when the collar is folded along said space andpreventing said edges of said sections from abrading the inner surfaceof the exposed ply of the collar.

WILTON RUBINSTEIN.

the collar is folded along said

